Italian Home Cooking and Entertaining

We were on vacation in Vancouver, B.C. and decided to go out for dinner. A friend of a friend who recently moved to the area enthusiastically suggested Vij’s–with the caveat that they do not take reservations.

We checked the address on the city guide: Open for dinner from 5:30PM, with a long expected wait past opening time. We got to the restaurant a bit early, just to be sure we would be served without waiting. At 5:15 there was already a small well-dressed crowd sitting in the little garden in front of the door. At 5:30 on the dot, a friendly Indian wearing a long red vest and leather sandals (with a few toe rings here-and-there on his toes) opened the door. Vikram Vij, the owner. With a friendly smile he ceremoniously directed each party to their table. A table for two for my wife, Kate, and I. The room was comfortable, not too large, and intimate even while humming with activity. A large opening through the back wall showed some young Indian women busy making arrangements in the spotless kitchen.

Immediately upon our arrival a waitress poured us water from a copper pitcher, while another staff member offered us a warm appetizer. There was a faint smell of spices that delicately yet insistently reminded us we were in an asian restaurant. The décor of the dining room was simple yet sophisticated: dim light in spite of the sunny afternoon.

To start, I ordered Garam Masala Sauteed Portobello Mushrooms in Porcini Cream Curry and Kate ordered one spoon (yes, just a spoonful) of Dungeness Crab with Cilantro and Lemon. My Portobellos were rich in taste and delicately spiced. The Porcini mushroom curry was delicious. The plate was accompanied by warm naan bread. Kate’s spoonful was just as good–fresh crab just enhanced by a hint of cilantro and a dash of lemon.

While we were deciding about the entrees we were offered a few warm pomme frites dipped in spices to keep us interested. The waiter asked about our appetizers. “So far so good” was my answer, but the place had already won me over.

I ordered Beef Tenderloin with Chestnut Puree and Mushroom, with Creamy Garlic and Cumin Mashed Potatoes and Green Beans for me, and Kate had Lemon-Ghee Marinated and Grilled Specialty Chicken Breast with Roasted Garlic and Cashews.

The beef was cooked to perfection and the garnish was delicate and not overwhelming, maintaining hints of cumin and aromatic spices. The chicken was almost as good, although not great.

Vikram checked up on us with sincere interest in our well-being. It was nice to finally find a restaurant whose owner personally takes care of his guests, with a smile and simple dignity. It makes you feel good; to find this trait in a chef/owner today it is not easy. “I am not a chef, I am just a simple man. No titles, just a normal person,” Vikram modestly qualified himself.

It was an evening to remember (even if it started a bit too early for my taste!), and Vij’s is a restaurant like all restaurants should aspire to be.

Food: 9/10
Décor: 9/10
Service: 10/10
Price: 8/10

Vij’s
1480 W 11th Ave.
Vancouver, BC
Canada
T. 604.736.6664
http://www.vijs.ca
Dinner served from 5:30pm – no reservation